Skip the tram queue and climb instead. Three unhurried days of miradouros, tiled stairways, and long lunches above the river.
It was meant to be a two-hour detour between towns. It became the reason I cancelled the rest of the week.
Falling asleep in one country and waking up in another remains the best magic trick in travel. Notes from three sleeper routes.
One canvas duffel, three colours, and a rolling technique passed down like a family recipe. A packing list for slow trips.
In any new city, the first morning belongs to the market. It is the cheapest guidebook ever written and it serves coffee.
The wrong turn that ended at a citrus stall, a shared table, and the best lunch of the year. In praise of not knowing the way.
